The tourbillon complication, a mesmerizing display of horological engineering, has long been the hallmark of watches costing tens, if not hundreds, of thousands of dollars. Charles Berret aims to challenge that assumption with its latest Kickstarter project, the KAZE tourbillon. This article provides a detailed review for potential backers, examining the materials, mechanics, and context behind this ambitious timepiece.
Quick Answer: Is the Charles Berret KAZE a worthy tourbillon to back?
The Charles Berret KAZE presents a compelling package for watch enthusiasts seeking entry into the world of high-complication timepieces. It combines a custom high-beat tourbillon movement with premium materials like a Grade 5 titanium case and a distinctive Gold Tremblage dial, features typically reserved for a much higher price bracket. The project has already found significant traction, achieving over 555.6% of its funding goal from its initial backers, signaling strong interest from the community. For those comfortable with the crowdfunding model and its timelines, the KAZE offers a unique proposition in accessible haute horlogerie.
1. The market context: why this matters now
The landscape of horology has shifted dramatically over the past decade. While established luxury houses command prestige, a vibrant microbrand scene has emerged, leveraging direct-to-consumer platforms like Kickstarter to offer innovative designs and high-spec mechanical watches without traditional retail markups. Tourbillons, once the exclusive domain of a few elite Swiss manufactures, remain a significant technical hurdle. Mainstream solutions are scarce and expensive. Charles Berret's KAZE positions itself within this trend of democratizing high-end watchmaking, focusing on delivering a complex and visually striking movement in a thoughtfully designed, modern package directly to an audience of enthusiasts.
2. Mechanical Excellence: A High-Beat Tourbillon at its Core
The centerpiece of the KAZE is its in-house designed tourbillon movement, operating at a frequency of 21,600 beats per hour (bph). This complication, originally designed to counteract the effects of gravity on a pocket watch's accuracy, involves placing the escapement and balance wheel within a rotating cage. While its necessity in a modern wristwatch is debated, its construction remains a significant demonstration of watchmaking skill. The 21,600 bph rate provides a smoother sweep of the seconds hand compared to slower movements and contributes to its timekeeping stability. The team has engineered the movement to be less than 6mm thick, allowing for a slim overall case profile. This intricate mechanism is fully visible through an exhibition caseback, allowing owners to observe the 'beating heart' of the watch in motion.
3. The Gold Tremblage Dial: Vintage Artistry Meets Modern Craft
Beyond the movement, the KAZE distinguishes itself with a Gold Tremblage dial. This finishing technique, inspired by vintage pocket watch dials, involves creating a finely textured, granular surface that interacts with light in a unique way. The result is a subtle sparkle that shifts and changes as the watch moves, providing a dynamic backdrop for the open-heart view of the tourbillon at the 6 o'clock position. This artisanal approach stands in contrast to the flat, mass-produced dials common in its price category. It’s a design choice that signals an appreciation for historical watchmaking crafts, reinterpreted for a contemporary audience. The texture is intended to evoke the 'shifting sands of time', aligning with the watch's name and 'Golden Hour' inspiration, making the dial more than just a functional component but a central part of the watch's narrative.
4. A Case for Daily Wear: 39.5mm Grade 5 Titanium
The watch's case is crafted from Grade 5 Titanium, an alloy known for its high strength-to-weight ratio and corrosion resistance. This makes the KAZE notably lighter and more durable than a comparable watch in stainless steel, enhancing its comfort for daily wear. The case diameter is a balanced 39.5mm, a versatile size that fits a wide range of wrists and sits well within modern-classic proportions. With a lug width of 20mm, it offers broad compatibility for aftermarket straps, allowing for easy personalization. The total thickness is 12.5mm, inclusive of a high-domed sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective (AR) coating to improve legibility. The crown is signed with the 'CB' logo, adding a final touch of brand identity to the thoughtfully considered case design.
5. Specifications at a glance
The following table outlines the key technical specifications for the Charles Berret KAZE tourbillon watch as provided by the project team.
| Specification | Value |
|---|---|
| Case material | Grade 5 Titanium |
| Case size | 39.5 mm |
| Lug width | 20mm |
| Case thickness | 12.5mm with high domed crystal |
| Crystal | Sapphire with AR coating |
| Crown | Signed crown with CB logo |
| Movement | Custom high-beat tourbillon |
| Beats per hour | 21,600 bph |
| Movement thickness | less than 6 mm |
| Jewels | 21 jewels |
6. The trade-offs backers should know
While the Charles Berret KAZE presents a strong value proposition, potential backers should consider a few key trade-offs inherent to this type of project:
- Extended Timeline and Crowdfunding Risks: The estimated delivery is October 2026. This is a significant waiting period, and as with any crowdfunded project, unforeseen production or logistics delays can occur. While the creator has a track record, the risk of delay is a fundamental part of the Kickstarter model.
- Newer Brand Identity: Charles Berret is a microbrand that introduced its first model in 2024. Backers are supporting a young company's vision. This is different from purchasing from an established brand with a long history and a global service network, which can affect long-term maintenance and resale value considerations.
- Premium Price for a Microbrand: While positioned as 'accessible' for a tourbillon, the backing price of HK$ 11,670 is a considerable investment for a watch from a newer microbrand. This represents a higher financial commitment and associated risk compared to backing more common, lower-priced automatic watches on the platform.
7. Behind the product
The Charles Berret brand was established in London with the goal of reinventing vintage horology with modern craftsmanship. The creator has a documented history on Kickstarter, with 6 prior campaigns successfully created. This experience suggests a familiarity with the platform's logistics and fulfillment challenges. The brand's portfolio includes the DARTH, Arrow, and Asteria models, the latter featuring a meteorite dial, as well as the colorful Helios series and the all-titanium Titan series. This history shows a consistent exploration of different materials and design concepts, leading up to the complexity of the KAZE tourbillon project.
8. What backing looks like
The initial 'KAZE Tourbillon Founder Allocation' tier, priced at HK$ 11,670, included the watch, a premium stainless steel mesh bracelet, a designer wood travel box, and a one-year international warranty. The campaign has already demonstrated strong market validation, securing HK$ 111,125 from 12 backers, surpassing its funding goal by over 555.6%. This robust start provides a positive signal for the project's viability. The team has set an estimated delivery timeline for all backer rewards in October 2026. For those interested in securing one of the subsequent tiers, the campaign page provides the most current availability and pricing information. View the Kickstarter campaign →
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FAQ: Charles Berret's KAZE
Answers to common questions about the Charles Berret KAZE and its Kickstarter campaign.
What is a tourbillon and why is it special in the KAZE watch?
A tourbillon, French for 'whirlwind', is a mechanical complication in which the balance wheel and escapement are mounted in a rotating cage. This is done to negate the effects of gravity on the watch's accuracy when held in different positions. In the KAZE, it serves as the mechanical and visual centerpiece, a feature of 'haute horlogerie' or high watchmaking. The custom movement, which beats at 21,600 bph, is designed to be slim and is showcased through the dial and an exhibition caseback, making it a key element of the watch's appeal and value.
Is the Charles Berret KAZE worth its Kickstarter price?
Evaluating the value of the KAZE involves weighing its specifications against its price within the context of a crowdfunded microbrand. The Founder Allocation tier was priced at HK$ 11,670. For this, backers receive a watch with a complex tourbillon movement, a full Grade 5 titanium case, and a unique Gold Tremblage dial. Typically, watches with these features from established brands cost several times more. The value proposition lies in accessing this level of watchmaking at a significantly lower cost, balanced against the inherent risks and waiting period of a Kickstarter project.
What materials are used and are they suitable for sensitive skin?
The KAZE watch case is constructed from Grade 5 Titanium. This specific titanium alloy is known for being lightweight, strong, and highly corrosion-resistant. Crucially, it is also biocompatible and hypoallergenic, making it an excellent choice for individuals with sensitive skin or allergies to metals like nickel, which is often found in stainless steel alloys. The crystal is high-domed sapphire, providing superior scratch resistance. The included bracelet is a premium stainless steel mesh, which is a common and generally well-tolerated material for watch straps.
What are the risks and timeline for backing the KAZE project?
The primary risks, as outlined by the creator, involve potential delays in production and delivery. These can stem from component sourcing, quality control iterations, or global shipping issues. However, the Charles Berret team cites strong relationships with manufacturing and fulfillment partners as a mitigating factor. They have 6 previous campaigns, indicating experience in navigating these challenges. The official estimated delivery date for backers is October 2026. Backers should be prepared for this long lead time and understand that timelines in crowdfunding can shift due to unforeseen circumstances, though the team commits to transparent communication.
How does the 39.5mm case size wear on the wrist?
A case diameter of 39.5mm is considered a highly versatile and balanced size in modern watchmaking. It is large enough to have a contemporary presence but small enough to fit comfortably on a wide variety of wrist sizes without feeling overwhelming. Combined with the lightweight properties of Grade 5 titanium, the KAZE is designed for comfortable daily wear. The 20mm lug width is a standard size, making it easy to pair with countless third-party straps, allowing owners to easily change the look from the included stainless steel mesh bracelet to leather, nylon, or rubber straps.